1. Single Hung Replacement Windows

Re-install the window panel following, in reverse order. Single-hung window. Installing single-hung windows can save money and provide satisfaction.

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Many people have inexpensive air conditioners that are intended to fit into a double-hung (vertically sliding sash) windows and want to use them in horizontally sliding windows. If you already have some of these air conditioners or are attracted to them because their price tags are significantly lower than that of casement units, portable units, or central air, it is possible to make a frame to adapt them to sliding windows. These solid, simple frames require no exterior brace. This is perfect for apartment dwellers and those who only need an air conditioner a few months of the year.

It takes about an hour and some basic lumber and tools to construct these frames. Once built, your air conditioner can be installed and uninstalled in minutes. (Please note that window air conditioning units aren't intended to be permanently installed. These frames also make it simpler to remove them at the end of the warm season.) The units pictured include unfinished plywood.

However, this can be finished, painted or replaced with plexiglass or other materials, as the sheet lumber simply covers an opening and is not structural. YOU NEED: 2X4s.(2 or less but the amount varies) 12 deck screws (or other long wood screws) Drill Saw Screwdriver Plywood Scrap. These window sills in the picture are fairly deep, allowing for the use of 2X4s. You may be able to substitute other lumber for shallower sills. Measure the width of your air conditioner. Be sure to include any vents that stick out on the side in this measurement.

(My first attempt to build this did not account for the vents and the air conditioner couldn't slide in. I considered building the frame around it but it was simply too awkward to maneuver this frame + air conditioner into place.) Measure the height of your air conditioner. This height should be the box height and not include the lips on the bottom or the top. Measure the height of the window opening. Take this measurement right up against the window because it will give the shortest height of this opening.

(Again, mistakes reminded me that sills can angle away from the window, giving a height that is too long.). Lay a shorter piece of 2X4 down and screw the ends of the longer pieces to the ends of this shorter one, as shown. Because of the depth of the lumber, I used deck screws, 2 at each connection point. Create a rectangle by screwing another short piece of 2X4 between the long pieces at the other end, as shown. Make sure the corners are square. At this point, it's a wise idea to put this rectangle into the window opening to make sure it fits. It should slide in and sit against the window framing.

(If it's a little loose, you can use shims to help wedge it in place during installation.). Next you will want to dry-fit your air conditioner. Set the A/C into the frame with the bottom lip against the outside of the frame. You'll notice that the top lip is probably U-shaped with the back side being shorter. The last piece of 2X4 will sit across the top of this shorter leg of the U (or the top of the A/C if there isn't a second leg). But don't screw it in yet. To figure out the placement of this piece of 2X4, lean the A/C so that the front vertical piece of the top lip lines up with the front edge of the wood frame.

This is how the A/C will be oriented in the frame when complete, tipping the unit back. While you're holding the A/C in place, take a look at the whole configuration to make sure it leans back sufficiently. Air conditioners must drain and are built to tip away from the window. If this lean appears to be too little (it really shouldn't be if the top and bottom lip are properly aligned with the frame), then you might want to rip this last piece of lumber, making it less than 3.5 wide, before screwing it in place. If everything looks o.k., lay this piece of lumber in place and mark its position on the frame. Also, mark the top edge of the front lip where it will hit this piece of framing. (This mark is so you can measure for the piece of plywood covering the hole in the top of the frame.) Remove the air conditioner from the frame and screw this piece of lumber in place.

It would be good, at this point, to dry-fit the A/C into the frame just to make sure you are on-track. Now you will want to measure the opening on the top of this frame for the plywood that will cover the hole.

Measure this opening keeping in mind that the piece of plywood cannot be mounted below the long horizontal mark you made on the last piece of 2X4. Screw the plywood covering in place. Optional Consideration: I realized after I made the frame that it would be really nice to be able to open the window for a breeze to come through on cooler summer days instead of running the A/C.

Single Hung Replacement Windows

Consider stapling screening material over the side of the frame that faces outside. Then you can hinge the piece of plywood over the opening and install a latch for it so you can open it up when you want. Maybe add some weather-stripping to ensure a good seal with the door is closed.

To install this frame, simply open the window and slide it inside up against the window framing. If you want to add extra stability to the installation and/or prevent it from leaning directly against the window frame, screw it into place by running long screws through the wooden frame and into the framing around the window opening.

You can also use angle brackets for the side that you cant screw-in. Slide the A/C into place and secure by running a screw or two through the lip. The weight of the unit should keep it in place but this is extra insurance. If the frame seems a little too loose to you, you can always use shims to wedge it tightly in place. Fill any gaps around the opening.

Installing a jeld-wen french patio door. You can use a removable caulk, trim narrow pieces of foam insulation, or other ways to fill the gaps. My boyfriend and I used this guide to make a frame to fit in my windows for an A/C. Super cheap and easy.

I had spent $32 on a proper 'mounting frame' but it still seemed unsteady so we checked online and found your guide! The 2x4s only cost $6 and it took MAYBE an hour from first cut to last screw drilled in place. The best part is that I can take it with me when I move, and can help friends to make their own. To 'pretty it up,' I'm going to cover the wood with a painting/drawing of mine. I thought about painting it to match the walls, but it doesn't look bad at all really- and it WORKS!!

Ack, I just wanted to mention, that to get an angle for any water to drip out, once the sides and bottom were done, I held the A/C with the back tilted downwards a bit, and my boyfriend put the middle bar right on top and drilled it in place (from outside the frame in, of course). So instead of being straight, the middle bar is already at an angle. Also, we drilled the frame into 3 sides of the window sill - that sucker is going NOWHERE! (I mention it because I didn't quite understand your directions, although my boyfriend knew what you were talking about, lol) THANKS again. The way you screwed in the center bar makes sense. Yeah, I can see that it might need to go in at an angle to keep the unit angled.

I'm also glad that you guys figured out how to secure the frame. I'll bet that thing is solid! It makes me very happy that people are getting some use out of these instructions. I have crank windows now and don't have my pics of this project because I didn't even think of documenting it as an instructable when I was making my frames for the old windows.

So I have to rely on my words, some drawings, and old pictures. My husband thinks I might have over-engineered the frames a little but I figure safety first! 5 months ago. Love the idea, but I have casement windows with a 15' width and 54' height, and want to move to a different location in my living room, so cockatiels (9) are not subjected to the cold air so much.

The spot I want has a sofa right a the bottom of where the A/C would go. So my question: would there be any reason not to build the wood frame so the A/C is on the top portion of the window, so you don't get frozen sitting in front of it? Seems to me it would work, but what precautions should I take to make sure it doesn't fall in or out, or would it be a problem at all? 6 months ago.

You are a huge help, thanks for the instruct, this is how I am going to mount my 2nd AC I just got for my bedroom, and I'm also going to redo the front room as well, as it is set up with a typical rigged outside support base made of wood that is big and bulky. This will clear up space and look professional as well. I had bought 2 sheets of thick plexi to rig in to a standard jimmy rigged install but now they will go with this instruct as part of a nice clean pro looking install, painted and all. Can't wait to get crackin!

Thanks again!